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94 S10 four.3L Dangerous Rod Bearing Alternative – See Disclaimer



See Bearing Removal Here… See Engine Clean Up Here … …

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40 Comments
  1. Just wanted to thank you, watched your video a few times and then proceeded to do the same thing step by step, the vehicle runs great now no tic at all, great oil pressure. Oh and its under forced aspiration too 😉 still running great!!!

  2. If it works you did alright

  3. my 97 s10 gets a slight lower knock when oil gets low. is that a rod bearing? it all started a few years back when I ran my truck low on oil and didn't know.

  4. There's always a bunch of nay-sayers out there telling you "It won't work" or "It won't last", and I've learned that damn near every one of them has no first hand knowledge at all. They are just regurgitating something they were told god-only-knows how many years ago. In the last few years, engines have COMPLETELY CHANGED. The metallurgy is nothing like it was decades ago. I pulled the head from a Toyota a while back, and in all the sludge (and darkness and exhaustion), I missed two head bolts underneath the cam bearings. I made a little press out of two head bolts and a pc of angle iron to try to "pop" the head loose. Of course, it failed, duh. However, in the experience, I realized that I had gapped open the rear of the head prolly almost 1/8" WITH TWO HEAD BOLTS STILL IN IT. Since then, I have done a head gasket on my 4200 and on a 2.2 Cavalier, and NEITHER ONE did I even bother to flatten the head. I have the ability to check for cracks myself. The 4200, I liked, so I put new head bolts, but the 2.2, I could care less and just cleaned it up, threw on a new gasket, threw the bolts back in, and tightened them until they felt "tight enough" and called it good. Both engines are running like clocks. There is no fkn way that I flexed that toyota head 1/8" from end to end, and .008 – .010 variance in head surface flatness is gonna make that engine fail. Just like here with these bearings… That crank material is so damn hard, as long as it polishes up relatively smooth, and it doesn't look like small animals have been chewing on it or some shit, you can mate up new bearings and it'll probably be just fine. The world is changing very VERY rapidly, and the word-of-mouth, "Oh my god! Don't do that! It won't work!" bullshit is way too slow in catching up and having people realize that stuff is different than it used to be. There's probly a few thing that mechanics did 30 years ago that can trash a modern engine (off hand, I can think of disco the battery while running to test the alternator nowadays can risk the ecm/pcm) and there's a lot of stuff a mechanic wouldn't have dreamed of doing 30 years ago, that'll work just fine today.

  5. Wear talc free rubber gloves and don't use paper towels. Spend a couple dollars for lint free rags. Lint is a big no no.

  6. Saw where he says not to touch the bearing surface. Wrong. Always use assembly lube. Rotating assemblies are Immersed in oil all the time but during the break in period it is especially important to pre-lubricate to prevent damage.

  7. MR. MudRFunR I want to thank you for the video on Bearing replacement I know you gave a disclaimer on this sort of repair but it work fine for me, I fallow your instructions to the letter I'm not mechanically incline, but I fallow your instructions the best I could and everything worked out better than I thought it would.Ones again thank you.

  8. F.Y.I.
    If you catch the knock right away usually standard will work. (this means the instant you hear the knock you shut down the engine)
    Use a micrometer to measure the Rod journals where the bearings ride on the crankshaft and the inside diameter of the rods. Bearings need to match perfectly inside the rod and proper oil clearance to the crank. Use a dial or spring bore gauge and micrometer to measure the inside diameter. If the journals are worn or an aftermarket crank is used standard size wont work. Also use Plastigauge or to confirm oil clearances when assembling.

  9. Great video man, if I may say a few suggestions, think for the Camera, e.g. when you were showing the stamping number on the cap we only saw it for a millisecond, hold it there for the camera. Lighting, should have cast More light on the work, lots of shadows and darkness etc, by No means is this a criticism at all. I liked the video and your demeanor was fantastic. The video would improve heaps if you imagine looking through the camera, any how thanks a Bunch dood ¡¡¡

  10. Just a thought,it the bearings can't handle the oil from ur skin, how the heck can it handle motor oil? I wouldn't think my skin oil to be more toxic than any motor oil.

  11. Did you use standard size bearings?

  12. Thank you for this video, I'm going to attempt this on my 4.3 Blazer because it has a bad ticking noise from down under the oil pan. Will let you know what happens

  13. I have a bottom end knock in a 4.3 Chevy, it's definitely coming from the oil pan. When I take the serpentine belt off, the knock goes away. Have you ever seen this and what could that mean?

  14. hey sir got a 350 with bottom end knock but bearing looks good what could it be it had copper shavings in the oil pan

  15. Nice tip using the plastic hoses to protect the shaft.

  16. Hey never to late to respond to a video like this.
    I'm not here to criticize what you've done. but I am here to say you are one risky dude that got a result shoddy but works.
    before there were all the professional mechanics and by the book guys there were guys like you who just got the job done and it worked. you tried it worked and that's what counts hats off to ya!

  17. Did you plastiguage? Did you reuse the same rod bolts? I sit still running problem free?

  18. If the rod bolts require torque/angle, they must not be reused. These are stretched to yield and this second time around they are likely to fail! ALWAYS REPLACE ANY FASTENER THAT IS TORQUE TO YIELD! Thank-you, Steve

  19. When would you say bearings are bad enough to need replacement? I got a 2.8 sitting on my stand that im getting ready to install in a 87 s10. It makes 70psi cold, 20psi hot. A bit hesitant about opening up the bottom end.

  20. Oh man,this fingerprint is an oldie urban legend at it's finest,its been 30 years i didn't hear about that,brings back a lot of memories

  21. have you did it with the engine still in the vehicle. just droping the pan. I have a blazer I was wondering

  22. i got some end caps on some wrong pistons and i dont know where they go mine are not factory marked what can i do

  23. Did this on a friends Caravan 3.3L V6 after it was run with no oil and trashed several of the rod bearings. It sounded terrible prior to the repair. The crank had some visible wear, we smoothed it out as best we could with some super fine sand paper, then cleaned it well. Put new bearings in. It made a little noise at first start up but quieted right down and has run fine ever since with no knocking at all. That was a few months ago and it has been on a couple of road trips since then too. So far, so good… but like you say, it's a risk. If it hadn't worked he wouldn't have been any worse off than when he started, and as it sits now he's gotten a few extra months out of it for very minimal repair cost.

  24. how long did this fix  last ???

  25. Nice video. did you reuse the bolts? my mazda3 Haynes manual says do no reuse bolts. is that just overkill?

  26. hi good videos ? 70 degrees wy put mark nuts more easy?

  27. nice thanks for the info.

  28. what led you to do this type repair. knock? or just maintenance?

  29. Great Video! I'm replacing both the crankshaft and rod bearings but wanted to know what replacement size clevit bearings I'll need? What ever factory was? Do I just go with original factory one's or do I go slightly undersize? Will the old bearings back side be marked what they were in thousands / size? I get and understand the emery cloth clean up and pre lube concepts etc… too.
    Thanks in advance!

  30. Hey this evil looking ghoul ( Ghoul Grouta One ) looks like a Grad Student I knew back at Michigan and his name was David Miller he probably is a CEO at GM while I ended up at NASA surrounded by spooks that hate Human Gentiles and they threw me out of KKK Jew America! I must have done something wrong at NASA? Yeah, I didn't suck the Martian Man's 13 inch Oscar Meyer! I'm Defecting to CANADA since the Jew USA is KKK Kommunist!
    CANADA? CA NASA? Two NASA Research Centers in KKK Kalifornia Ames and the JPL in Pasadena Foothills where I was injected with Jew KKK Kancer Hot Sauce and I'm dying of KKK Jew Kancer!

    Manzo or M ANZO and if we re-arrange ANZO we get NAZO and changing the O to an A
    we get M NASA but if you rotate the axi-symmetric letter M 180 degrees you get
    W NASA and I ended up at the NASA Lewis Research Center? Go Figure! Set-up by the KKK Jews in Teaneck NJ from the Get-Go!

    I used to work at an auto machine shop after school and it wasn't my choice but my fake family unit tended to force me into jobs I really didn't want to do. From scooping ice cream in a white shirt and bow tie and paper had to ripping dirty old engine blocks apart and putting the pieces in a huge boiling hot tank of acid that will dissolve a human in about 10 minutes__okay, weak Sodium Hydroxide solution but still. Then having to pull the heads out of the tank and wire brush all the carbon out of the combustion chambers by scraping, chiseling, and then more wire brushing with the cheap drill! Oh my? What did I get myself into? Anyway, I remember another fella who was there before me had moved up in ranks and was assembling engines in this what I now know was a shoddy
    half-ass auto machine shop. He was working on a 351 Windsor Engine and I remember talking with him as he was putting the pistons in with a crappy old ring compressor alend the wooden handle of a large ball peen hammer and I notice the brand new Melling Oil Pump on the table near the engine but there was no Oil Pump rod anywhere to be seen.
    The next day the engine was complete and I was told to paint it up Ford Blue with you guessed it, a few cans of For Blue high temperature spray cans. Anyway, the engine looked real sharp all painted up but since it was a remanufactured engine it had no intake manifold on it. Well, to make a long story short the engine was a problem engine
    and this required an in field repair which is unheard of for a remanufacter of engines.
    If the engine fails for any reason you usually request that the short-block be returned and send a different remanufactured short block and the 351 Windsor was very popular back then with many old cores available. I was told the engine did not develop oil pressure and the "Experienced Engine Installer" did not check for oil pressure and fired the 351 up and roasted the bearings and instead of telling the "Experienced Engine Installer" to pull the engine and return the short-block he went into the field, pulled the pan, and installed a new set of Clevite 77 main and rod bearings to my surprise.

    So, the question is what really happened? If the Melling Pump was ordered without a Brand New Oil Pump shaft( a few bucks back then ) then where was the pump shaft from the old engine because all the parts from the core are all cleaned and kept together? Also, since the Machine Shop Manager was supposedly a seasoned professional also why didn't he check for the pump shaft before shipping the engine and why wasn't it policy to crank the engine to pressurize every engine before shipping? Makes sense. If you can't get oil spurting out the oil filter hole you have an oil problem and then you can fix the problem before the engine is installed by a "Seasoned Professional Engine Installer" who refuses to check oil pressure before starting up the engine. So, what really happened and who is to blame? I believe that the Oil Shaft should have been ordered from Melling along with the pump and these new parts should have been along side the engine with the Speed Pro Rings, Clevite 77 Bearings, Fel Pro Gaskets, etc… Also, the engine rebuilder warranty or guarantee should explicitly state that the warranty or guarantee is void if the installer does not check for oil pressure before starting the engine. What if the installer leaves the oil pressure sender off or something causing low or no oil pressure. And, why would a "Seasoned Professional Engine Installer" not check for oil pressure and not check for the oil pump shaft?
    I am in my 50s and have been scratching my head on this one for years.

    There was another mysterious problem engine and that was a Chevy Vega 2300 sleeved engine and we must have sold 100 of these with no problem__even though all the old junk components were re-installed on the freshly rebuilt engine which resulted in shoddy engine performance just like the old engine but with no coolant water seeping into the combustion chambers. Anyway, I was prepping the block having taken it out of a chemical bath that reminded me of "Love Canal" and I was putting the main caps back on for some reason and one main cap bolt was damaged and when I used an air wrench to snug it down it stripped the aluminum threads. Okay, the "Super Experienced Machine Shop Manager" laughed and said we'll just put a heli-coil in dare! And, he mounts the
    block in the Old Bridge(NJ)-Poor-Right and drilled out the threads, tapped new threads for the SS helicoil insert and that's all I remember because I think the block went to the old Van Norman Boring Bar that positioned off the deck of the block and with the three cat's paws in the cylinder__for the Cast Iron Sleeves and then the block should have gone back to parts cleaning for a thorough parts cleaning bath. Buuuuut, I think what happened is that the "Shop Manager" had either drilled a hole into the oil galley or the bolt hole was not a blind hole but extended into the oil galley and this caused shards of block aluminum to enter the oil galley. Needless to say the engine was a problem engine during installation and seized up due to contaminants in the oil__shards of aluminum.
    Hmmm? Standard practice was after machining was finished on the blocks they were washed and the oil galleys pumped clean with parts cleaning fluid but remember this shop was shoddy so the cleaning fluid area was near the hot tank and used for rough cleaning and final cleaning with sludge all over the place__ was no final cleaning area or QA area? What happened? The "Seasoned Professional Shop Manager" would have seen that the bolt hole extended into the oil galley and would have put a wax plug or rag in there and if he drilled into the oil galley I'm sure he would have left a note on the block to remove the galley plugs and wire brush out the oil galley on that side. Yet, the engine was assembled with contaminants in the engine that caused bearing damage during start up? Doesn't make any sense. I think the engine was not given a final cleaning after it was bored for the cast iron sleeves and I think it was compressed air blown off and then assembled. And, since there were so many old Vega 2300 engine cores around why didn't the "Professional Shop Manager" put a sign on the block saying damaged block and use a different Vega 2300 engine core instead of rushing a Heli-Coil insert which is a very simple procedure making the threads much stronger then the original steal on aluminum arrangement. Hmmm?

    I still can't figure out those two problem engines but after thinking about the place and the lack of organization and supervision I think I was better off scooping ice cream!

    From HELL-LA,

    Dr. Wayne E. Manzo PhD
    NASA Lewis Research Center Engineer
    "The only Homeless NASA PhD in KKK Kalifornia"

  31. I've got an old '58 Chevy with a 235 that has a bad rod bearing. I just might try this. Thanks.

  32. I think this vid will help me greatly. Thank you!!!

  33. I have a 96 Tarus with a knock in it. But, it only starts knocking when the engine is warm and under load. Like when you go up a steep hill but it doesn't do it when idling but will if you rev the engine once it's warmed up. Though, the other day I let it idle for about 15 mins playing with the gas and it didn't knock once. I've changed the oil in it along with the oil filter.

  34. can you do this with engine still in the car?

  35. Good vid, i am in the process of finding out which big end has gone on my ford s-max (UK) and doing it while the engine is in the car, should be fun. as soon as i heard the knocking i stopped and it only went a few hundred yards then i got it towed home, so hoping no major damage done 🙂
    Very good info in the vid, taken all on-board, keep up the good work!

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